Peter Luger, the iconic German steakhouse nestled under the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge, has long been revered for its simple and focused menu. With only one steak option, a bone-in porterhouse, the restaurant has maintained its classic appeal for over 130 years.
However, breaking its tradition of minimalism, Peter Luger recently unveiled a new addition to its menu – a steak sandwich. This marks the first menu update in over two decades. Let’s take a closer look at this latest Peter Luger dish and find out if it’s worth $38.
The Composition of the Sandwich
The steak sandwich at Peter Luger features a unique set of ingredients. Served on an onion hero, a baguette topped with singed onions, reminiscent of the complimentary onion rolls served at the beginning of the meal, the sandwich offers a distinct flavor profile. However, the texture of the baguette was firmer and denser than expected, leaving room for improvement.
While Peter Luger’s signature steak is the porterhouse, the steak sandwich incorporates a New York strip or sirloin, according to a passing waiter. The meat arrived medium rare, in a couple of slabs, but proved to be slightly chewy. The presence of caramelized onions added flavor, although they lacked the desired crispness. The sandwich was satisfactory so far, but not on par with the restaurant’s renowned porterhouse.
The Sauce
The sandwich’s critical flaw lies in the inclusion of a sauce akin to Luger’s bottled steak sauce. This sickly sweet and unappetizing reddish-brown goop, potentially due to its corn syrup content, presented a repulsive texture. Although it added a hint of horseradish flavor, it detracted from the overall enjoyment of the sandwich.
The question remains whether customers can request the sauce to be omitted. Until these adjustments are made, such as removing the sauce, softening the roll, and potentially slicing the meat thinner, the new offering falls short of expectations.
A Lukewarm Experience
Peter Luger’s recent years have witnessed a decline in its reputation, losing stars in reviews and struggling to impress diners. The steak itself is still good, but the price seems steep for what it offers. In this context, the new steak sandwich seems to fit right into the current state of the restaurant.
The thick slices of steak on the roll, accompanied by caramelized onions and horseradish, are prepared medium rare. However, the absence of an inquiry about desired cooking preferences is a notable oversight.
Questionable Value Proposition
While the steak sandwich is not terrible, it raises the question of whether any other establishment could sell a few lukewarm pieces of meat for $38, excluding tax and tip (or $43 with fries). For comparison, Keens’ bavette steak sandwich costs $25. The challenge lies in getting the steak sandwich right, especially when the meat is sliced as thick as it is at Peter Luger. Each bite risks dislodging long pieces of steak from the sandwich, leaving diners to decide whether to consume them separately or rearrange them within the sandwich.
Missed Opportunities
Like other items on the menu, the steak sandwich at Peter Luger feels like it could benefit from some easy fixes. Thinner slices of steak could improve the overall eating experience, and seasoning the meat before it arrives at the table would be a welcome enhancement. The current under-seasoned nature of the steak allows the dominant taste to be the sweetened horseradish, which may not be inherently bad but leaves room for improvement.
While the steak sandwich at Peter Luger may have its merits, it falls short of expectations and lacks the refinement one would anticipate from the legendary steakhouse. As Peter Luger embraces change, it is evident that this new addition requires further refinement before it can truly impress discerning palates.
Check out this perfect steak from Peter Luger: